Showing posts with label #overlanding. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #overlanding. Show all posts

Wednesday, 19 November 2014

Turkey

Trabzon
Turkey is one of my favorite countries! Friendly people, spectacular landscapes, lots of history, and more yummy food!

We crossed the border into Turkey with no problems. We arranged a bus to take us all the way from Batumi to the Sumela Monastery and then to Trabzon, our overnight stop. The duty free shop was happy to see our group. They made lots of money.

After the border, we headed out away from the Black Sea into the mountains. The Sumela Monastery was built by the Greeks in AD 386 on a steep cliff face. It is quite a steep walk up to the Orthodox building, but well worth it. This is an important cultural and historical site in Turkey. There is also a café at the top where we bought post cards and ice creams and apple cay (tea).

Then it was back to Trabzon for the night. We are going to catch an overnight bus to Gӧreme tomorrow. This means it will take us one day (night) instead of the normal two to get there. And also we have a full day to explore Trabzon before catching the bus.

Sumela Monastery





Trabzon and the Black Sea





Our overnight bus
Gӧreme
Gӧreme is truly a magical place unlike any I have ever been. It is in a small valley surrounded by fairy chimneys – pointy conical volcanic ash rock formations formed by erosion with dug out dwellings inside. The town has a laidback atmosphere with terraced cafés all around the cobbled streets. We are staying here for three nights, giving us enough time to do everything we want, although there is so much to do here! Our hotel is half building half cave. The rooms are chiseled out of the ancient rock. It creates a unique and cozy atmosphere in every room.

On the day that we arrived we all went exploring the little town. We couldn’t stay out too late, because we had hot air ballooning scheduled for four thirty the next morning. We were all looking forward to it, especially after seeing all the balloons in the air when we drove into Gӧreme that morning.

The ballooning was an amazing experience. My advice is always that if you are going to do one activity anywhere in the world, do the scenic flight. Compared to other places in the world, it is affordable and well organized in Gӧreme. We had a really good pilot that took us close to the rock formations and high up in the air. He managed to land our balloon right on the balloon trailer like a smooth operator. Great success!

After the ballooning we went back to our cave hotel for breakfast before we were picked up for a full day tour of Cappadocia. On the tour we went for a close-up walk around the fairy chimneys, for a pottery demonstration, and for a visit to one of the underground cities. These cities are amazing. They were dug out in the Bronze Age as hideouts in dangerous times of invasion. The best way to think about them is to imagine an ant’s nest with mazes of tunnels and rooms. The bigger cities housed up to twenty thousand people at a time.

The last day in Gӧreme was free time again. Everybody went off doing different things. Brooke, Paolo and I hired a car and drove to the Ilhara valley, ninety kilometers to the south. We went for a walk up the fourteen kilometre valley. There are several monasteries and churches chiseled out into the rock cliffs along the way. Very interesting! Marjo and Michelle went for a hammam. John and Dani and Michelle went carpet shopping. The girls went trinket shopping and lounging in coffee shops. Liz and Zoe went hiking in one of the countless tributary valleys. And the cats slept in the sun.

And oh yes, we all went for a group dinner to eat the local specialty, stew in a clay pot. This is pretty cool. They cook your stew in a little closed clay pot. When it is done the only way to get it out is to break the pot open. Very nice…

Goreme







Potter

Hot air ballooning!














Istanbul
We caught another overnight bus to Istanbul. Our final destination! It is unbelievable that three months are already coming to an end. It seems like we were in Kathmandu yesterday, but it also feels like ten years ago. It is difficult to explain, but if you are the kind of traveller that embarks on epic expeditions, you will understand. So much happens in a compacted amount of time. Sights, relationships, experiences, culture shocks, good times, crises, tensions, relief, hiking, sitting, sleeping, 4x4s, buses, trains, airplanes, climate changes, altitude changes, sleeping in sixty different beds… crazy!

Istanbul is a massive city. I think you need six months here to explore everything. This is my fifth time in Istanbul, and I have never been to the same place in it twice. There is too much to see and do here. We are all scattering about and organizing our next moves, but we made some time for a last group dinner. We went to a good restaurant and almost all of us ordered the fillet mignon with a good bottle of dry red. I wonder why? Do this expedition and find out!

Dinner ended with a slideshow of selected pictures through Brooke’s lens. It is a good way to end an expedition like this. We experience so much that by the end of it you forget what happened the first two and a half months. A slideshow recap puts it all in perspective.

Thanks to all our Odyssey overlanders for this unique expedition! We definitely did it like no other overlander group has done it before. No truck, landslides, Chinese cops and drivers, snow and ice, visa denials, Caspian adventures, and overnight buses. Who’s got better stories to tell?


Istanbul





Monday, 3 November 2014

Azerbaijan

Baku
The adventures of overlanding never end. I (Nico) had an interesting two weeks in Istanbul, waiting for the group to travel with Brooke through amazing Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. I was to meet them in Baku. I expected to get there after them, because my flight to Baku was booked for well after twenty four hours after they were scheduled to arrive in Turkmenbashi. I could not contact them, because they were at sea, so when I landed in Baku I went to the hotel we use there. The confused lady behind the reception desk did not know anything about a big group checking in that day, so I set off to find a local sim card to make some calls.
I phoned the local agent and got a hold of Kirsten in the Odyssey office and together we figured out the boat was still on the other side of the sea! Well, the rest is history. I enjoyed an extra day in Baku and the guys arrived two days later. After breakfast and a shower we went exploring the city.
The city spent a lot of money restoring the old city. It is beautifully done with small shops and restaurants in old buildings surrounded by a big fort wall. There is street art and big sculptures everywhere in the city.
My one must-see tip for Baku would be to walk along the newly built promenade on the sea shore to the old city for some local beer and dinner in an old low-arched ceiling building.

Baku Old Town
Old town, new cars
The Maiden's Tower
Old town, with the modern city skyline beyond
Art in the old town


Sheki
We had a busy day today. We had to drive to Sheki and stop off at some of Azerbaijan’s historical sites.
Our first stop was the Diri Baba Mausoleum that was built in the early fifteenth century. This is a strange building that seems to be hanging onto the cliff. There are many myths and legends about this place, and nobody is quite sure about the exact history of it. Adding to the strangeness is an ancient cemetery across the valley.
Our next stop was the Juma Mosque of Shamakhi. Juma means it is the main mosque of a city or town. This mosque is also known as the Friday Mosque. It was built in the mid eighth century. Since then it has seen earthquake, war and fire. The Azerbaijan government restored it only a year ago. The building seems massive in a town that does not seem that big. It is well worth a stop when you are passing through on your way to or from Baku.
As it goes, we got our first flat tyre of the trip after that! As you can see in the photo, all the guys got down and dirty to help change it…
Soon we were off again to our last stop in Sheki, Khan’s summer palace. It is a historic house built in 1797. It is not a big palace at all, but what makes it special is the detailed artwork on the inside. It took ten years to build the house, three years for the structure, and seven years for the interior. Unfortunately they don’t allow you to take pictures on the inside. You’ll have to come see it for yourself.
Tonight we are staying in a real karvansarai, a traditional Silk Road hotel. It is a strange old building with arches and walls a meter think. Exciting!
And tomorrow we head off to a new country yet again: Georgia.

Diri Baba
Nico
Inside a prayer room
Morgan

Paolo and John helping to fix the tyre


On the road again
Juma Mosque


Khan's Palace


Sheki
Karavansarai
Boardroom